Bird photography is one genre where having more reach is always better — physically getting too close could stress the bird out and cause it to fly away.

While the best focal length to use depends on the size of the bird, your distance from it, and how large you want it to be in your composition, most of the time, you need a full-frame equivalent focal length of at least 200mm, i.e., a telephoto lens.

For casual bird photography, it doesn't matter which camera you use as long as it lets you shoot at long focal lengths. But you do have an advantage if you are using an APS-C camera: The 1.6x crop factor gives you more reach than the same lens on a full-frame camera.

For example, shooting at 200mm on an APS-C camera gives you an angle of view equivalent to 320mm on a full-frame camera. This is recorded using the full camera resolution, providing even more flexibility for further cropping and printing.

Other camera features to look out for:

• High speed continuous shooting
• Larger, denser AF coverage
• Faster AF acquisition

Click here to explore a range of Canon cameras and lenses to discover the perfect match for you!

Tip: Familiarise yourself with your camera's operations.

Birds move very fast. You don't want to fumble with your gear and miss the shot! Make sure you are familiar with how to operate your camera before the shoot.

Before you start photographing birds, you need to be able to spot them! A good pair of binoculars will be very handy.

For casual birdwatching and bird photography, a pair of binoculars with a magnification of 8x or 10x should be sufficient. A 12x or 14x binoculars is good for observing smaller birds and details.

Choosing binoculars: What's in a name?

(1) Magnification: The larger this number, the closer objects appear.

(2) Objective lens effective diameter: The larger this number, the wider the field of view and the brighter the image that you see.

(3) Image Stabilizer: Keeps the image steady, even at high magnifications.

Fun fact: Image shake caused by hand movement becomes even more obvious at high magnifications. The Image Stabilizer (IS) technology on Canon's binoculars keep the image steady, making it easier to spot birds and track them.

Click here to learn more about Canon's range of binoculars.

Bird photography is one genre where having more reach is always better — physically getting too close could stress the bird out and cause it to fly away.

While the best focal length to use depends on the size of the bird, your distance from it, and how large you want it to be in your composition, most of the time, you need a full-frame equivalent focal length of at least 200mm, i.e., a telephoto lens.

Tip: Leaving some negative space can make your composition stronger. Here, it draws our attention to the collared kingfisher's gaze into the distance.

Other preparation tips:

• You don't want to stand out too much from your surroundings. Wear clothes in neutral, dull colours
• Use a backpack to keep your hands free. You need both hands to hold the camera steady.

To note: Thinking of feeding wild birds to get your shot? You might want to reconsider. Many people, including photographers, frown on it as it could harm the birds and alter their natural behavior. In some public places, it is against the law.

In general:

• Fast shutter speed
• Narrow aperture
• ISO Auto
• Servo AF
• Continuous shooting

Shutter speed: Start with 1/500 sec or faster

The actual speed depends on how much the bird is moving. 1/500th of a second might be enough if the bird is relatively still, but you will need at least 1/1,000th of a second to freeze a bird in flight.

EOS R5/ RF100-500mm f/4.5-7.1L IS USM/ FL: 254mm/ Manual exposure (f/7.1, 1/2000 sec)/ ISO 400

Tip: To make your shot more captivating, shoot at the eye level of the bird.

…but a slow shutter speed can create dynamism

If the situation allows, you could also use a slow shutter speed to create motion blur and add some movement to the shot.

EOS R/ RF800mm f/11 IS STM/ Aperture-priority AE (f/11, 1/40 sec)/ ISO 1600

Tip: Remember that your shutter speed will affect elements other than what you are trying to turn into a motion blur. Find the speed that gives the best balance.

Aperture: Probably narrower than you think

At long focal lengths, the depth of field is so shallow that you can get beautiful bokeh even at f/22.

EOS R6/ RF800mm f/11 IS STM + Extender RF 2x/ FL: 1600mm/ Aperture-priority AE (f/22, 1/320 sec, EV +0.3)/ ISO 12800

Tip: Make sure that your subject is inside the focal plane. Bump up the ISO speed if you need a faster shutter speed.

AF: Back button AF, Servo AF mode

Use Servo AF mode and enable Continuous AF so that the camera will keep tracking the bird even when it moves. But if the bird is very still, you should be able to get good results with One-Shot AF.

Set up your camera to use back button AF so that if you have to recompose the shot after acquiring focus, half-pressing the shutter button won't cause the camera to refocus on something else.

An AF area mode that uses entire AF area like Face Detection + Tracking Priority mode should work in most scenes. However, if the background is busy or if you are photographing a bird in flight, to reduce the chances of the AF getting "distracted", you might want to use a smaller AF area mode such as Zone AF or Large Zone AF instead.

Make sure that the bird's eyes are in sharp focus

Bird photography is like portrait photography—it is crucial for the eyes to be sharp, especially for head shots like this one. Use a narrower aperture where necessary.

EOS R6/ RF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM/ FL: 147mm/ Manual exposure (f/2.8, 1/800 sec)/ ISO 400

Tip: Try to incorporate catchlights. It makes the subject look livelier

EOS R5/ RF100-500mm f/4.5-7.1L IS USM/ FL: 324mm/ Manual exposure (f/7.1, 1/5000 sec)/ ISO 800

For birds in flight, achieving focus precisely on the eyes might be harder. Make sure that at least the head is in focus.

Cool fact: Canon's Animal Detection AF, which debuted on the EOS R5 and EOS R6, can automatically detect not just the bodies and heads of birds, but even their eyes!

Don't…

• Approach nests. It could cause birds to abandon their nest and nestlings.
• Get too close to the bird. If it shows signs of stress, move away.
• Make sudden movements and loud noises. Be calm and quiet, even if you see something exciting.

Do…

• Avoid using a flash where possible. It doesn't just scare birds, it might even cause some to go blind.
• Research about birds and their behaviour. It not only enriches your experience but helps you anticipate their movements better!
• Respect the birds and their habitat. Be aware of your surroundings, take only photos, and leave only footprints.
• Respect other bird photographers/bird watchers.
• Be patient. You might need to stay still for a while in the same spot before the birds get used to you. That perching bird might be facing away from you now, but if you wait quietly for a while, it might turn around and give you a better photo opportunity.

EOS R6/ RF100-500mm f/4.5-7.1L IS USM/ FL: 500mm/ Manual exposure (f/7.1, 1/4000 sec)/ ISO 1600

And there you have it – the basic how-to's of bird photography. So, whether you're a budding bird enthusiast or just looking to capture the beauty of nature, grab your camera, step outside, and and let your passion take flight. Happy snapping, and may your lens be filled with the beauty of our feathered friends!